Thursday, Jan. 07, 2010
Hidden waterway spot heavy on seafood fare
MILLIKEN'S HIDDEN REEF
Setting the Table
We knew it as Dynamite's and then as Pete's Landing, but now Milliken's Hidden Reef is in the sprawling restaurant beside the Intracoastal Waterway at Dock Holidays Marina.
Restaurant veteran Gary Milliken and his significant other, Linda Edwards, and Gary's daughter, Candice Page, and her husband, Jimmy Page, Jr., are the principals behind the new restaurant that opened in November. One of the most striking features of their remodeling is the installation of a beach beside the outdoor Tiki bar. Three truckloads of sand were hauled in to create it out on the patio, which is enclosed with heavy plastic curtains while the weather is chilly. The patio wraps around two sides of the building, and in warm weather is a fantastic place to enjoy watching boat traffic.
Inside, the motif is heavy on seafood in a laid-back, airy and relaxed way. The dining room is on two levels, and the patio drops the tier down to a third level. At the waterfront end of the upper level, near the sushi bar, is a stage where bands and karaoke singers perform. Several televisions are strategically hung so every seat in the house can catch a game.
Down the Hatch
Seafood starts with locally-renowned sushi chef Pickett Streblow. He rolls maki and kappamaki (wrapped in cucumber and served as a palate-cleansing sushi intermezzo), creates succulent nigiri and has appetizers and salads on his sushi menu. These can be accompanied by pots of green tea, sake and Japanese beer, or any selection from the full bar menu.
My dining companion and I had Yellowtail Nigiri and a Crunch Roll because my friend wasn't sure she was ready for a raw fish sushi roll. She loved the cooked tempura shrimp inside the Crunch Roll and was encouraged enough to try the raw nigiri, which she also enjoyed.
We checked out three appetizers: Miniature Lump Crab Cakes ($8.95), Milliken's Crab Stack ($12.95) and Cracked Conch ($10.95). The Crab Cakes were flavorful and the generous serving of fried Cracked Conch was surprisingly tender; it came with cocktail sauce. Our favorite by far was the Crab Stack, which is a molded softball-size cylinder of avocado/mango/cilantro salsa topped with a thick layer of chilled lump crab meat. It's coated in just enough light citrus dressing so it holds its shape, is enough for two people to share and tastes fabulous.
We shared an entrée - the Reef Seafood Platter that comes with flounder, shrimp, oysters, deviled crab and scallops, a choice of fries or baked potato and coleslaw for $18.95. It comes fried or broiled; I picked broiled. The clam strips came fried anyway, so I'm guessing they are purchased pre-breaded and frozen, but they were still tasty. The fish tasted fine and the medium-large shrimp were sweetly delicious. However, the Deviled Crab was tough and dry, the scallops had an odd processed flavor and the oysters tasted horribly like mud.
I commented on the oysters because Candice Page told me they serve fresh Beaufort oysters, and even though oysters aren't at their best when broiled they shouldn't taste muddy. Milliken said I was not served their fresh Beaufort oysters, and after tasting what I was served he agreed and with my analysis and said he threw the rest away. However, I was charged full price for the platter.
Check Please
For dessert there are Hot Fudge Chocolate Cake, Pecan Tartlet, Apple Tart served with vanilla ice cream, Mini Cheesecake and a mini dessert sampling.
Sunday brunch is served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and is a buffet with traditional breakfast items plus Lemon Pepper Chicken, raw bar items, Oysters Rockefeller, Roast Beef, a Bloody Mary Bar and more. Brunch costs $9.95 for one plateful or $14.95 for unlimited servings. Children ages 12 and younger can enjoy the brunch for $5.
There are daily dining deals such as all-you-care-to-eat prime rib on Saturdays for $19.95, and select appetizers are half-price at the bar from 4-7 p.m. daily.
Milliken's Hidden Reef is at 1525 13th Ave. N. in North Myrtle Beach. Call 249-REEF (7333). Hours are 4-10 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays.
Becky Billingsley serves up fresh news daily at www.MyrtleBeachRestaurantNews.com.
