Thursday, Jul. 23, 2009
Oh Black River Keep on Rollin'
black river grill
Prime Rib, mixed vegetables and potato casserole at Black River Grill in Myrtle Beach. - photo by Becky Billingsley for Weekly Surge.
SETTING THE TABLE
The first time I visited Black River Grill, I made a mistake that chef/proprietor Kurt Klepper says he hears a lot: I kept calling it Black Water Grill. That old Doobie Brothers classic kept on rolling through my head as I checked out the décor.
We do have a nearby Black River, but all the rivers around here contain black water thanks to tannins from the cypress trees that stain the water to a café mocha hue. Klepper’s sister, Sarah Klepper-Guess, is a professional photographer who ran with the Black River theme and produced gorgeous black-and-white photography depicting areas around Georgetown and Murrells Inlet. Diners are surrounded by images of live oaks, boat landings, waterscapes and landscapes.
Be sure to visit the cozy bar area to see more pictures, and if you are in the mood for finger food you may want to settle in there to take advantage of the bar menu featuring 50-cent oysters on the half shell, $4 Crab Dip and $4 Artichoke Dip.
The local photos, plus the low-key wrought iron black, stainless steel and terra cotta color scheme, and the pleasant outdoor shaded dining patio, sets a laid-back tone for a menu that is comfortable and reliable, with Lowcountry standards and exciting regional innovation.
DOWN THE HATCH
Kurt Klepper is not a restaurant newbie. His previous experience in the Grand Strand area includes seven years as a manager at Joe’s Crab Shack, and at the now-closed Buckhead Colorado Steakhouse.
The all-day menu has a broad range of choices. Three house soups ($4.75-$5.95) are Kickin’ Crab Corn Chowder, Tomato Basil Bisque and She Crab Soup. The chowder is my favorite because while it does kick with heat, it doesn’t hurt. Well, maybe it hurts a little. It hurts so good.
Four salads ($2.45-$2.95) span a Dinner Salad and Caesar Salad, and smaller side versions of them. Any salad can be topped with fried, grilled or blackened chicken, steak or shrimp.
One of my 19-year-old son’s favorite appetizers is Crab-Stuffed Jalapenos ($7.25 for four), and he says they, “…are the best stuffed jalapenos I’ve ever had.”
That’s because Klepper uses fresh jalapenos and stuffs them with his own blend of crab, cream cheese, Monterey Jack cheese and sprinkles of culinary pixie dust. Other tempting appetizers ($5.95-$11.95) include coconut breaded Lobster Bites, Beer Boiled Shrimp, Oysters Rockefeller and Sesame Seared Tuna crusted with black and white sesame seeds and served rare.
Coconut Lobster and Sesame Seared Tuna can also be served as sandwiches ($6.75-$12.95). The lobster sandwich comes in a crunchy coconut coating with plum sauce and a mango slice. All sandwiches come with fries and a pickle, and other choices include French Dip, Prime Rib, Grouper, Philly Steak, Black & Blue Burger, Grilled Chicken, Portabello, and the popular Black River Burger with smoked gouda cheese, sautéed portabellos, onions, peppers and applewood smoked bacon.
For a dinner entrée we tried the duck and the prime rib. That prime rib ($9.95-$18.95) is Certified Angus aged a minimum of 21 days by Buckhead Beef and rubbed with a undisclosed spice blend.
The duck is an exceptional treat for anyone who enjoys game meat. Remember the chef worked at Buckhead Colorado Steakhouse which specialized in game dishes, and he has this exquisite sliced duck breast in pineapple plum sauce perfected. For $16.95, it is an exceptional value.
Side veggies are not your usual sautéed zucchini; it’s a colorful and flavorful mixture of yellow carrots, red bell peppers, tender young green beans and tiny broccoli florets. The Potato Casserole is a delightful change from a baked potato, and its creamy fluffiness is infused with sour cream, bacon, Cheddar cheese and garlic.
Chef Klepper works under the KISS method – Keep it Simple Stupid – and the result is simply fabulous meals.
CHECK, PLEASE
Key Lime Pie shipped in from Mike’s Pies in Key West, Fla., has a consistency between cheesecake and custard, and the filling’s pleasant tartness is balanced by the thick graham cracker crust’s sweetness. But my favorite is a slice of chocolate-peanut butter ecstasy called Reese’s Peanut Butter Pie from Sweet Streets near Hershey, Pa.
An eager staff is on standby waiting to give diners efficient and comfortable experiences; the chefs’ years of restaurant experience shine through again.
Black River Grill is at 1000 South Commons Drive, Myrtle Beach (near the Surfside Beach Lowe’s Home Improvement). The entire menu is available all day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. For additional info, call 750-0296 or visit blackrivergrill.org.
Becky Billingsley serves daily restaurant news at www.MyrtleBeachRestaurantNews.com.
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